Thursday, July 25, 2013

Android Hackers Infect Phones in China

A new bug in the Android system has been exploited by hackers, allowing them to infect legitimate apps to spy on users. 

Two legitimate Android apps originating from China have been discovered to have an infection that uses the Android "master key" security holes.BlueBox, a security organization, originally discovered the vulnerability earlier this month. Symantec then recently released a report about the attacks. "We expect the attackers to continue to leverage this vulnerability to infect unsuspecting user devices," stated the report. The infections are based in code which allows the hackers to spy on and control the phone remotely. The apps which were infected are reportedly used to schedule medical appointments. 

"Symantec recommends users only download applications from reputable Android application marketplaces," stated the company in an effort to minimize the number of attacks through educating users on safe phone use. Users also still have full ability to remove the infected apps and software. Unfortunately, the nature of the Android market makes it difficult to fix the security issue quickly or efficiently. Because Android systems are distributed by many different companies in many different places, a single update is therefore difficult to get to all Android users at once. But Android isn't the only platform which has experienced security breaches lately.Apple just had a major security breach within its developer portal, potentially compromising over 200,000 developers. As hackers get increasingly good at finding security holes across all kinds of platforms, it becomes more and more important for both users and providers to focus on digital security regardless of operating system or device. 
Retweet this story

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

How to Easily Transfer Files Between Nearby Smartphones

smartphones-in-hands
Transferring photos and other files between nearby smartphones should be simple, but it’s not. There are a variety of different ways you can do this, and which is best depends on which types of smartphones you’re transferring files between.
This is particularly complicated because so many of these methods aren’t interoperable. Android, iPhone, and Windows Phone all have their own ways to send files and they don’t like talking to each other.

NFC

Any Android device running Android 4.1 or later with an NFC chip inside it can send files via NFC using Android Beam. Just open the photo or other file, press the phones back to back, and you’ll be prompted to wirelessly “beam” the file to the other phone.
This works great for quickly sending photos, but it can’t send every type of file. It’s also very limited. iPhones don’t have integrated NFC hardware, so they can’t participate. Windows Phone and BlackBerry devices do have NFC hardware, but Android Beam can’t send files with them — it’s Android or nothing.
Windows Phone devices can send files between each other with NFC, so you’d be in luck if you managed to find someone else with a Windows Phone.

Bluetooth File Transfers

Smartphones generally have integrated Bluetooth hardware, and Bluetooth can be used to wirelessly transfer files between nearby devices. This seems like a solution that would work across all smartphone platforms. However, while Android supports Bluetooth file transfers, Apple’s iPhone does not.
Luckily, Windows Phone 8 and BlackBerry both support Bluetooth file transfers, so this can theoretically work across all modern smartphone platforms, excluding iOS and devices that haven’t been updated from Windows Phone 7.
On Android, you’ll need to open the file you want to share — for example, view the photo in the Gallery app — tap the share button, and then select the Bluetooth option. You’ll be prompted to set up the Bluetooth pairing between the two devices.

Share Over Dropbox or Another Service

Since hardware-based methods are so incompatible across devices — nothing so far is compatible with an iPhone if only one of you has an iPhone — you’ll probably want to rely on some sort of online service.
There’s a good chance one or both of you already use Dropbox. If you uploaded the file to your Dropbox app — on Android, you can even have photos you take automatically upload to your Dropbox account — you can then share a link to the file so the other person can download it directly from your Dropbox account.

Email the File

What’s the only way to wirelessly send a file to someone else’s smartphone and have them receive it without needing a specialized app, no matter what smartphone they’re using? There should be a standard that makes this easy, but there isn’t — so the answer to the question is email. Emailing a file is the only way you can share a file with anyone else using any smartphone, no third-party apps needed.
Just fire up the email app on your phone, attach the file, and send it to the other person’s email address — they’ll get the file in the email inbox on their phone.
It’s a shame that, after all the sophisticated software we’ve developed, email is still the most reliable way of sending files.

AirDrop

Apple may refuse to support standards like NFC and Bluetooth file transfers, but they’re working on their own local-area file transfer solution for their upcoming iOS 7.
The AirDrop feature will show you other iPhones in your nearby area and allow you to share files and other data to them. Unfortunately, this is an iPhone-only feature, so iPhones will still be cut off from Android, Windows Phone, Blackberry, and everyone else when it comes to local wireless file transfers.

Of course, there is a wide variety of other options for transferring files. You’ll find many third-party apps that give you ways to wirelessly transfer files in every smartphone platform’s app store, but you’ll generally need to be running the same app as the other person if you go this route.
None of the above methods is particularly ideal for large files — for example, if you want to copy your music collection to a nearby phone. In situations like these, you may want to just connect your phone to a computer, copy the files to the computer, and then connect the other person’s phone to the computer and copy the files onto the other phone
Retweet this story

How to Improve Your Android Phone’s Automatic Brightness With Lux

lux-auto-brightness-dash
Like other smartphones, Android phones use an ambient light sensor to automatically adjust your phone’s display brightness. This often doesn’t work too well.
It’s up to each Android phone’s manufacturer to correctly calibrate the auto-brightness feature, and they generally don’t do an amazing job. The phone may go from too bright to too dim without anything in between.
Lux is a third-party app that allows you to easily calibrate your phone’s brightness sensor, saving you battery power and reducing eye strain if your phone is normally too bright in dark rooms.

Getting Started

We’ll be using the free Lux Lite app for this. It offers the paid version’s most important features and doesn’t even contain any advertising.
If you find the app useful, you can get the full version of Lux Auto Brightness for about $3. The full version allows you to set your screen brightness to very low levels — good at night — and offers modes that tint your screen different colors, similar to how f.lux works on Windows.
To get started, open the Lux Dash app after installing Lux.

Creating Linked Samples

To train Lux, you’ll have to create “linked samples.” Whenever you feel that your phone’s display brightness level isn’t ideal for the current level of ambient light in the room — whether it’s too bright or too dark – you can create a linked sample. This means that you’ll adjust the brightness level manually, then tell Lux that this brightness level is ideal for the current level of ambient light. Create several of these linked samples and Lux will learn what the appropriate levels of brightness for different situations are.
This works much better than automatic brightness does on stock Android. If you’re not happy with your automatic brightness level, you have to disable automatic brightness entirely and adjust the brightness level manually. If you use Lux, you can adjust the brightness level manually and teach Lux to do a better job in the future. Android’s default automatic brightness feature can’t learn in this way.
The two values at the top of the Lux dash are screen brightness level, measured as a percentage, and ambient brightness level, reported by the ambient brightness sensor as an lx value. To create a linked sample, just adjust the brightness slider in the Lux app and tap the link button.
The ambient brightness and screen brightness levels will be linked after you confirm the values.
If you make a mistake and aren’t happy with how you’ve trained Lux, you can also view your linked samples and delete any of them or reset Lux to its default settings.

Setting Your Adjustment Type

By default, Lux is set to only change your phone’s brightness level on wake. When you take your phone out of your pocket and wake it up, Lux will take a measurement of the ambient brightness level from your phone’s ambient light sensor and set the appropriate brightness level. It won’t continue to adjust the screen’s brightness level as you use your phone.
On the one hand, this can be useful. You won’t be distracted by your phone’s screen brightness changing as you use it. On phones with bad brightness sensors, the screen brightness may normally fluctuate as you use it,  distracting you — not so with this setting. On the other hand, if you go from a bright location to a dark location, or vice versa, your phone won’t automatically adjust its display brightness.
To tweak this behavior, you can choose one of several different adjustment types:
  • Manually: This mode disables automatic brightness entirely, allowing you to adjust your screen’s brightness manually.
  • On Wake: Lux changes your screen’s brightness when you wake up your phone. This is the default setting.
  • Dynamically: Dynamic mode adjusts your screen’s backlight brightness whenever a “significant change” in ambient brightness occurs. There’s some delay to prevent the brightness level from fluctuating wildly, and these delays are customizable in Lux’s settings.
  • Periodically: Lux periodically checks the ambient brightness level and then adjusts your screen’s brightness. Lux does this every five seconds by default, but you can customize the time period.
  • Ascendingly: Lux will increase your phone’s screen brightness when the ambient brightness level increases, but won’t decrease it when the ambient brightness level decreases. The brightness level will be reset when your phone goes to sleep. This is particularly useful for phones with inaccurate brightness sensors that swing back and forth or rooms with constantly changing brightness levels.
On Wake works well if you regularly take your phone out of your pocket to use for short bursts, as your phone will choose an appropriate screen brightness level each time. if you’re using your phone for longer periods and want the screen’s brightness level to adjust automatically, the Dynamically setting will be your best bet — although if light levels continue to change or your phone’s brightness sensor is unreliable, you’ll want to try the Ascendingly setting.

To use Lux, all you really need to do is keep creating linked samples to train its automatic brightness algorithm for your phone and your personal preferences. You should also choose the adjustment type that works best for you. Other options are available, but these are the most important ones.
Retweet this story

Sunday, July 14, 2013

How to Automate Your Workflow in Adobe Photoshop

Not only is Adobe Photoshop a powerful hands-on image editing tool, it’s a very powerful hands-off image editing tool. Read on as we show you how to automate repetitive and routine tasks so you can spend your time more creatively, rather than cropping, correcting, and otherwise clicking.

Why Do I Want to Do This?

Early on in every amatuer and professional photographer’s pursuit of photography and digital editing they realize just how much time they’re spending dinking around in photo editing applications. Photoshop, and comparable tools, are truly the darkroom of the digital age where the modifications and finishing touches are applied to photos. Unlike the darkrooms of old, however, we have the power to automate parts of the process in a way that photographers of yesteryear could only dream of.
Let’s say, for example, you already know How to Fix Poor White Balance in Your Photos with Post Processing so you now know how to correct the color issues in your photos using Photoshop. Let’s say you have two hundred photos from a family get together that all need the same massaging. That’s an enormous amount of labor, especially when you consider that you’re just repeating the same actions over and over again on each image. Automating the process would allow you to perform the actions once and then have Photoshop repeat the process on every image.
This process is called creating an Action in Photoshop lingo and it’s, frankly, a vastly underused feature in Photoshop. Investing the time to create actions that cover many of your frequently repeated tasks in Photoshop can save you untold amounts of time both in the short and long term. In our previous example, correcting the color cast of the images, even if you could fix every image in 12 seconds, you would still need to sit at your computer furiously clicking and typing away for 40 minutes (assuming you were an absolute focus machine and didn’t waver even a moment from your work). A PS Action, by contrast, will tear through the pile of photos as fast as your computer will allow it. It will likely take less than five minutes for the same work and, even if the work is complex and takes hours to complete, it doesn’t matter because you don’t have to sit there.
Before we proceed, there is an important distinction to be made and one that we would like you to keep in mind when you’re thinking about what you’d like to automate and how you would like to do it. There are two key components to the automation process in Photoshop:Actions and Batching. Actions are essentially the recorded steps you would like Photoshop to repeat and can be executed on a single image at any time (e.g. you could make a simple action to crop a photo and add a drop shadow border in one click). Batching is the process of using the Batch function to repeat the selected Action on multiple images (e.g. to crop and drop shadow border 1,000 pictures in one session).
The reason we’re taking a moment to highlight the difference is so that you don’t feel like you should skip this tutorial because you’re not really planning on editing 1,000 photos at once. Actions just by themselves, without the muscle of the Batch function, are still amazing time savers. Even if you’re not making changes to tons of photos at one time, creating actions for your commonly repeated edits is still extremely useful.
Read on as we cover how to use both the Action and Batch functionality in Photoshop.

What Do I Need?

You’ll only need a few things for this tutorial. The most obvious of which is:
Beyond a copy of Adobe Photoshop (old or new doesn’t matter, Actions have been a part of Photoshop for ages) you’ll need a scratch folder with some images you would like to edit (or a folder to deposit newly created images in if you’re automating a from-scratch workflow).

 Automating with Actions

Now that we’ve established why you want to do it and what you need, it’s time to get down to the business of actually automating the workflow itself. The best way to get a clean automation workflow is to go through the process one time, noting the necessary steps, so that you don’t waste any time fixing your automation process goofs during the actual recording stage.
For our automation workflow today, we’re going to have a little fun and create an Action script that can automatically generate cool bokeh-style wallpaper. This workflow is particularly well suited for automation because the style of brush we use in the tutorial to paint the bokeh pattern, while not quite random, is highly variable. If we automate the process, we’re going to end up with a whole folder of cool backgrounds.
The first thing we need to do is record the creation process from start to finish. To get started let’s open up the Actions panel in Photoshop. You can do so by navigating to Window -> Actions or by pressing ALT+F9:
After you open the Actions window, you’ll see it on the right hand side of the screen with some of the default actions already available, like so:
Go ahead and grab the bottom of the window and pull it down, it’s easier to work with the Actions when you can see more of the pane. In addition, you’ll likely find it useful to create a unique folder just for your creations so they don’t get mixed in with the defaults. Go ahead and click the little folder icon on the bottom navigation bar and name your new folder (known as a “set” of actions).
While we’re talking about the icons in the navigation bar, let’s review all of them. Starting from left to right we have the Stop Recording, Record, Playback, New Set, New Action, and Delete button. The Stop, Record, Playback buttons work just like you’d imagine they would (and we’ll delve into them in just a moment). We just used the New Set button to create a folder to hold our new actions; now it’s time to use the New Action button to create our new Action.
Click it now and name the action something easy to recall (e.g. if you’re making a white balance correction workflow, name it WB Correction).
In addition to naming your new Action, you can even assign it a hot key for quick an easy access or a color code it so it stands out in the list. Once you’ve created the Action entry, it’s time to actually start recording the editing actions you want it to repeat. Remember, for this tutorial we’re going to use Actions to create a batch process for custom bokeh wallpaper. You can follow along with the general process with any actions you wish to repeat.
Note: Recording actual brush strokes (as opposed to global actions like resizing the canvas) is a feature new to Adobe Photoshop CS6 and not found in earlier versions. Thus, if you’re trying to follow along explicitly with our automated wallpaper painting process, you’ll need to have CS6 and you’ll need to click on the extended options menu in the Actions window and check off “Allow Tool Recording”.
Once you have everything set the way you want, hit “Record” to begin the process:
The recording button in the Action window will light up (you can click the stop button or hit ESC at any time to stop recording). At this point you want to begin the process you want to record. In our case we’re going to begin by creating the canvas for our Bokeh wallpaper. 
It’s important to note that only the things you actually do will be recorded. The Action function won’t record you changing brushes or adjusting brush sizes, but when you actually put the brush to the canvas and move it around, it will record what happens. Our bokeh tutorial revolves around creating four layers (a background, and then three different layers of variable sized bokeh circles), and we’re going to turn right around and replicate that in our Action workflow.
You can see where we created the canvas, applied the gradient, made a new layer for the first bokeh layer, and the applied the brush and the blur. If at any point we had made a mistake and included an element we didn’t need, removing it would be as easy as clicking the Stop Recording button, and then dragging the no longer needed Action element to the trash. Furthermore, you can easily select an existing action and hit record, starting in the middle of the process without a problem.
There are two things worth noting if you’re creating an Action script you wish to batch later on. First, don’t include the creation of the canvas in the Action script (Photoshop will go into a weird loop where it will create blank canvases without saving your work). Second, notice the Save step at the very bottom of the list. For Action scripts you intend to execute in the middle of your workflow, you don’t need a save function. If you want to fully automate things, as we are about to do in the next section, you need to make saving the image the last step. This save dialog can be overridden in the actual Batch, but we’ve found that batched scripts behave more consistently when it is present.
At this point, we’ve recorded all the steps, start to finish, to create a bokeh wallpaper. We can now click on “Bokeh Wallpaper” in the Actions menu, under the set “HTG Tutorial” we created earlier, and press play to create a brand new no-interaction-needed wallpaper. This is a the complete Action we talked about earlier in the tutorial and a form of one-off automation.
What about repeating the process on multiple images (or in this case, creating multiple images), though? For that we need a Batch. 

Automating with Batches

Batches are simply an extension of the Actions function in Photoshop wherein you apply an Action to a whole bunch of files. The Batch functionality is very powerful and can turn a whole pile of manual editing into a smoothly automated system that lets you put your feet up and read the paper while it finishes.
Compared to the work of setting up the actual Action itself, setting up a Batch is about as simple as can be. That said, there are a few basic rules to follow so you don’t end up frustrated or with a pile of overwritten files.
Since we can instruct the Batch command to rename the files, it’s actually much faster to just create one blank canvas, save it, make a bunch of copies in Windows, and then let Photoshop massage them and rename them. If we were correcting a bad color cast in a bunch of photos, for example, we could skip this creation step as we’d already have a folder chock full of source material to work with.
To start the Batch process, navigate to File -> Automate -> Batch:
When you click on “Batch…” you’ll be presented with a large menu like so:
It is here that you make the important decisions for your Batch process including: what your source folder is (or if you’re going to apply the Batch to the currently opened files), as well as your destination folder (or if you’re going to have the Batch overwrite the existing files). We strongly suggest creating an Output folder of some sort. Overwriting originals is always risky business, so unless your source folder is actually a copy of the original files and not the originals themselves, you should always opt to output to a secondary folder.
Finally you can choose to name your output files with various conventions. We opted to call ours Bokeh Wallpaper and serialize them starting with 001.
Time to let it rip and sit back as Photoshop does all the work for us. The Batch we are running is fairly intensive as it involves multiple layers, brush stroke recall, blurring, and then collapsing the whole thing down to save.

Even then, it ripped through 50 high resolution wallpapers for our triple monitor setup in 15 minutes and 38 seconds–all this on a machine where we left a good two dozen other apps open and kept on working on a different monitor. Not bad!

That’s it in a nutshell: you record your actions, you run them (either one-off while you’re working or in a giant batch while you’re doing something else) and you save a huge amount of time in the process. Everything from mass cropping to resizing to color correction becomes easy to automate, freeing you up for more creative work in the process.

Retweet this story

How to Setup Your Laptop with Tracking Software in Case You Ever Lose It

Apple offers a “Find My Mac” service to track a lost or stolen stolen Mac computer. However, Microsoft doesn’t provide an equivalent service for Windows PCs — not even for tablets running Windows 8.
If you’re using Windows and want the ability to track your laptop should it ever become lost or stolen, you’ll need to install some third-party software. There are many paid services that offer this feature, but there are also good free options.

The Basics

All such tracking services work similarly. You install a piece of software on your device and set up an account with the service. If you ever lose your device, you go to the service’s website, log into your account, and you can view the device’s location and control it remotely.
Be aware that it will likely be more difficult to track a laptop than a smartphone. A smartphone will probably be connected to a data network and be in standby mode, so it can communicate its location back to you. However, if a laptop is powered off or just not connected to Wi-Fi, it won’t be able to report back to you. A tracking service can offer some additional protection should you ever lose your laptop, but it will be harder to locate a lost laptop than it is to locate a lost smartphone.

Installing Prey

Prey offers tracking software for Windows, Mac, and even Linux PCs. Prey also offers tracking apps for Android and iOS, so you could use this one service to track all of your devices.
This service has paid pro plans, but the basic tracking service is completely free. The free service allows you to have three devices linked to your account and store up to ten location reports per device.
After installing Prey, you’ll be prompted to create a new user account or enter your current user account details.
Once you’ve logged in, Prey will immediately be up and running. Prey runs as a Windows service by default. If you want to configure it, you can open the Configure Prey shortcut in the Prey folder in your Start menu’s programs group.
To have Prey check in more frequently so you’ll receive reports more quickly if you ever lose your laptop, select Options for Execution, and modify the Frequency of reports and actions setting.

Tracking Your Lost Laptop

You can now visit the Prey project’s website and log in with the same account details you entered on your computer. You’ll see your computer and any other linked devices.
If you lose your laptop, you’ll need to click its name on your Prey control panel and set the slider from “OK” to “Missing.” Prey only tracks your device when it’s missing, so it isn’t constantly tracking your laptop’s location. Be sure to also enable the Geo feature, which uses your laptop’s internal GPS hardware or the names of nearby Wi-Fi hotspots to report its location.
You can also have Prey perform specific actions, such as setting off an alarm — this is useful if you misplace the laptop nearby. Of course, it’s not as reliable as sending an alarm to a phone, because the laptop must be powered on and connected to the Internet to receive this message and begin the alarm.
Be sure to save your changes afterwards.
Once you’ve set your laptop to missing, its status will become “Tracked, waiting for report.” When the Prey software on your laptop checks in with the Prey server, it will receive a message that it has been marked as lost and generate a report. You’ll only receive an alert if the laptop is powered on, connected to the Internet, and the Prey software is still installed.
There’s an “on-demand” mode where you can request a report immediately, but this feature is unavailable in the free version. If you can wait a few minutes for your report, the free version will work just as well.
Once a report arrives, you’ll see it on the Reports tab. The report includes the information you selected, such as the laptop’s geographic location, its network status and IP address, and a screenshot of the computer’s desktop and webcam capture of its user. This information may help you get the laptop back, or may be helpful evidence when you report the laptop as stolen.

If you don’t want to use Prey for some reason, you may want to try LockItTight, which is also free.
While Absolute Software’s LoJack for Laptops is a paid service, it’s worth a mention because it has the advantage of being integrated into many laptop’s BIOSes, which makes it more powerful and difficult to remove.
Retweet this story

Sunday, July 7, 2013

How to Erase Windows 8′s Sync Data From the Cloud

The ability to sync data and settings between computers running Windows 8 is great, but it does mean that your information – possibly personal – is stored in the cloud. If you have changed your mind about syncing and want to remove your data from the cloud, here’s how to do it.

Disable Data Syncing

The first thing to do is to disable syncing on each of your Windows 8 computers.
Call up the Charms bar by moving the mouse to the one of the right hand corners of the screen, or by pressing the Windows key and C simultaneously.  Click Settings followed by ‘Change PC settings’.
Click the ‘Sync your settings’ link to the towards the bottom of the left hand list and then click the switch labeled ‘Sync settings on this PC’ so that it is in the Off position.
You can then close the Settings screen by dragging it downwards.
Remember to do this with all of the computers you have associated with your Microsoft account.

Deleting Cloud Data

When syncing has been disabled, data can then be removed.
Microsoft has setup a dedicated page which can be used to delete data that has been uploaded to the cloud. Pay a visit to the Windows 8 Personal Settings page – you may be prompted to sign into your Microsoft account – and click the Remove button at the bottom.
That’s really all there is to it. Your data will be deleted and syncing will no longer be carried out unless you decide to re-enable the feature. This is useful to know if things go awry, you’re concerned about security, or you just want to start over from scratch.

Retweet this story

Why Can Linux Systems Sometimes Recover Data Windows Can’t?


Why is it that you can use a Linux-based computer or Linux Live CD to recover data Windows could not?

Background: Earlier this year I had a problem with a SSD drive that Windows would recognize anymore. But eventually a bootable Parted Magic 2012-10-10 did the trick. See this solved thread. One question stuck with me from that moment…
Question: I am aware that Linux is generally a bit more technical and raw, but can someone roughly outline why a Linux system (or in fact only that particular one, since Ubuntu did not do the trick) is capable of still accessing/communicating with a half-corrupted device when Windows isn’t?
  • Do they just ignore any potential indicators that something might be wrong?
  • Are there any concrete reasons at all?
  • Was it just luck that this particular environment was able to get the SSD to response if only for a limited time?
While it certainly could have been luck, there’s likely more than a few factors at play. Let’s investigate.

The Answer

Usually this comes down to what, exactly, is being accessed and how, exactly, the device is failing. For instance, if the SSD in question is unable to retrieve, say, sector 5 and will start stalling as soon as anything reads sector 5, the difference may simply be due to what different systems automatically access once they recognize a new disk.
When Windows detects a new disk, it will read the partition table and automatically attempt to open any filesystems it knows how to read. If any of the structures/blocks being read during this “mounting”-process trigger your faulty SSD to go bye-bye, the difference with that specific linux distribution is simply that it may not automatically mount all the partitions in question, or may, when mounting, simply read a different subset of sectors (the implementation of NTFS in Linux is very different from the one in Windows — while the on-disk format is the same, it is up to the OS which structures it deems necessary to read. Windows may read secondary copies of the MFT, or it may start precaching some data and that could be the difference. Ubuntu is in a similar boat — it is not geared towards recovery out of the box, it will attempt to mount any filesystem it finds on newly discovered media, automatically. It is for this reason that specialized distributions geared towards recovery are a better bet, as they only do what you explicitly ask them to as opposed to doing things automatically.
Of course, you may simply have gotten lucky, too. I don’t know enough about the failure mode of the SSD to say.
Linux generally does not ignore indicators that something is wrong. It will receive the same SCSI errors from the SATA chipset as Windows will — if you look at the kernel log, on a faulty disk you will see lots of error messages. It depends on what programs are actuallly accessing the disk what will happen next. If it’s software geared towards recovery, it may try to reread the same sector a limited number of times, it may skip it, etc. Usually the best bet is to get an image of the drive with as many sectors read cleanly as possible, and then try to recover your data from that image (doing any analysis directly on the drive is a bad idea usually since its condition may worsen and just because you were able to read something once, that does not mean you will be able to read it again.)
A lot of it is the way the environment handles the file system, and the ACLs or the hard drive.
Windows is going to do everything it can on its own to obey its ACLs, and sectors marked as bad or empty. So NTFS or Fat partitions created and maintained in Windows as well as Windows MBRs will be handled by Windows as Windows marked it.
Also, if the drive is failing the more you use it the more likely it is to encounter a major problem and the environment will crash. Then how the OS handles that comes into play, Windows will BSOD or reboot, the windows boot process will throw MBR messages, missing file messages (NTDLR.dll is missing or corrupt) and stop, because these bad files are required.
When you use a live disk, you are not relying on any of this. A bad MBR is bypassed because you boot off of the disk. A bad sector that corrupted the NTDLR.dll is not needed. Everything is on the disk. You can then attempt a read. If it encounters a ‘blank’ sector or bad bit, that environment handles it however it was programmed to do. Ubuntu likely would rather maintain normal OS behaviors and continue on with what is most likely to be happening. The sector is blank, do something else. That sector is bad, stay away, do not read again do not write or it will cause problems.
A recovery platform however, is going to want to read all data. The file markers say the file should be on 0,5, 13…. if the filesystem reports 13 is missing, ignore the blank header and read the file anyway, or read the bad sector as best as it can and try to recover.
Also, Windows CAN do alot of this with third party applications, Recuva can find alot of these “missing” files, for one. But you don’t want to be in an environment that may write back to the disk and cause true permanent loss.
I did simplify this, and add some interpretation, but it should fill in some blanks for what you are asking.

Retweet this story

Saturday, July 6, 2013

How to Test if Your ISP is Throttling Your Internet Connection

ethernet-cables
We’ve all heard the rumors and seen occasional evidence — some Internet service providers slow down certain types of traffic, like BitTorrent traffic. Other ISPs slow down their customers’ connections if they download too much data in a month.
But does your ISP do any of this? Here are a few simple ways you can test whether your ISP is performing any traffic shaping or bandwidth throttling on your connection.

Traffic Shaping

The Glasnost project provides web-based tests that can identify whether different types of traffic are being rate-limited (slowed down). For example, run the BitTorrent test and Glasnost will test whether your ISP is slowing down your BitTorrent transfers. Glasnost can also run tests to detect whether Flash video, eMule, Gnutella, Email, HTTP, SSH, or Usenet are being throttled or blocked by your ISP. Each test takes about eight minutes to run.
Glasnost measures the performance of different types of traffic between your computer and their servers. If the speeds are similar, no traffic shaping is likely occurring. If the speeds are different — for example, if BitTorrent traffic is much slower — then traffic-shaping is likely occurring.
Unfortunately, the Glasnost tests require you have the Java plug-in installed. If you want to run these tests, we recommend you uninstall Java or at least disable the Java plug-inimmediately after — the Java plug-in has been a big source of security problems. You should also watch out for the terrible Ask Toolbar and make sure not to install it while installing Java. We normally wouldn’t recommend using websites that require Java, but the Glasnost tests are the most widely recommended tests you can use.
As with other similar tests, you’ll want to run Glasnost tests while you’re not performing any large downloads on your network.

Bandwidth Limiting

Is your ISP slowing down your connection because you’ve used too much data? Some ISPs have been known to do this as a way of enforcing their bandwidth caps. Even ISPs that offer “unlimited” connections may throttle you after you hit a certain, usually large, threshold.
To test whether your ISP is slowing down your Internet connection over time, you’ll have to measure your Internet connection speed over time. For example, if your ISP is slowing your Internet speed down, it’s probably slowing it down towards the end of the month after you’ve used a large amount of data. You then probably have typical, fast speeds at the beginning of the next month.
You can monitor Internet speed variations over time by using the SpeedTest website. Run a test at the beginning of the month and run further tests regularly, especially at the end of the month. If you consistently see slower speeds near the end of the month, it’s possible that your ISP is throttling your bandwidth. You can sign up for a SpeedTest account to log your results and compare them over time.
Note that other factors can also affect SpeedTest results. For example, if you or any other person on your network is downloading or uploading on your connection, the measurement may not be accurate — you should perform a SpeedTest while your connection isn’t being used. The time of day can also impact your Internet connection speeds. You may see faster speeds at 3 a.m. when no one is using the shared line to your ISP rather than at 9 p.m. while everyone else in your neighborhood is using the line.
It’s also normal if you don’t see the maximum speeds your ISP is advertising — most people aren’t getting the Internet speeds they’re paying for.

Other Tools

The Measurement Lab (M-Lab) provides a variety of other tools that can be used to measure Internet connection data, testing for traffic shaping, measuring network performance, and diagnosing network problems. If you’re looking for other tools to test your connection, this is a good place to start.

If your ISP is throttling your connection, there’s not much you can do, unfortunately. You can switch ISPs and try to find a better one — assuming your ISP doesn’t have a monopoly in your area. You may also be able to pay for a more expensive plan with higher bandwidth allocation and, hopefully, without traffic shaping.
Retweet this story

How to Install Ubuntu Linux on Your Chromebook with Crouton

linux-installed-on-chromebook
Chromebooks aren’t “just a browser” — they’re Linux laptops. You can easily install a full Linux desktop alongside Chrome OS and instantly switch between the two with a hotkey — no rebooting necessary.
We performed this process with the $249 Samsung Chromebook, also known as the Samsung Series 3 Chromebook. If you have another Chromebook, read on anyway — it’s the same process.

Crouton vs. ChrUbuntu

Installing Ubuntu Linux on your Chromebook isn’t as simple as installing the standard Ubuntu system — at least not at the moment. You’ll need to choose a project developed specially for your Chromebook. There are two popular options:
  • ChrUbuntuChrUbuntu is a Ubuntu system built for Chromebooks. It works like a traditional dual-boot system. You can restart your Chromebook and choose between Chrome OS and Ubuntu at boot time. ChrUbuntu can be installed on your Chromebook’s internal storage or on a USB device or SD card.
  • CroutonCrouton actually uses a “chroot” environment to run both Chrome OS and Ubuntu at the same time. Ubuntu runs alongside Chrome OS, so you can switch between Chrome OS and your standard Linux desktop environment with a keyboard shortcut. This gives you the ability to take advantage of both environments without any rebooting needed. Crouton allows you to use Chrome OS while having a standard Linux environment with all its command-line tools and desktop applications a few keystrokes away.
We’ll be using Crouton for this. It takes advantage the Linux system underlying Chrome OS to run both environments at once and is a much slicker experience than traditional dual-booting. Crouton uses Chrome OS’s standard drivers for your Chromebook’s hardware, so you shouldn’t run into issues with your touchpad or other hardware. Crouton was actually created by Google employee Dave Schneider.
When you use Crouton, you’re actually just running one operating system — Linux. However, you’re running two environments on top of the OS — Chrome OS and a traditional Linux desktop.

Enabling Developer Mode

Before you do any sort of hacking, you’ll need to enable “Developer Mode” on your Chromebook. Chromebooks are normally locked down for security, only booting properly signed operating systems, checking them for tampering, and preventing users and applications from modifying the underlying OS. Developer Mode allows you to disable all these security features, giving you a laptop you can tweak and play with to your heart’s content.
After enabling Developer Mode, you’ll be able to access a Linux terminal from within Chrome OS and do whatever you like.
To enable developer mode on the Samsung Chromebook or Chromebook Pixel, hold down the ESC and Refresh keys and tap the Power button. You’ll enter recovery mode. Older Chromebooks have physical developer switches that you’ll need to toggle instead.
At the recovery screen, press Ctrl+D, agree to the prompt, and you’ll boot into developer mode.
When you transition to developer mode, your Chromebook’s local data will be erased (just like when you unlock a Nexus Android device). This process took about 15 minutes on our system.
Whenever you boot your Chromebook, you’ll see a warning screen. You’ll need to press Ctrl+D or wait 30 seconds to continue booting.
This warning screen exists to alert you that a Chromebook is in developer mode and the normal security precautions don’t apply. For example, if you were using someone else’s Chromebook, you could normally log in with your Google account without fear. If it was in developer mode, it’s possible that software running in the background could be recording your keystrokes and monitoring your usage. That’s why Google makes it easy to tell if a Chromebook is in Developer Mode and doesn’t allow you to permanently disable this warning screen.

Installing Crouton

First, you’ll need to download Crouton. Click the following link to download the latest release of Crouton to your Chromebook: http://goo.gl/fd3zc
Once you have Crouton downloaded, press Ctrl+Alt+T in Chrome OS to open the crosh terminal.
Type shell into the terminal and press Enter to enter Linux shell mode. This command only works if Developer Mode is enabled.
To install Crouton the easy way, all you need to do is run the command below. This installs Crouton with the Xfce desktop and an encrypted chroot for security.
sudo sh -e ~/Downloads/crouton -t xfce
The actual installation process will take some time as the appropriate software is downloaded and installed — it took about half an hour on our system — but the process is largely automatic.
If you’d rather install Ubuntu’s Unity desktop instead, use -t unity instead of -t xfce in the command above. You can run the following command to see a list of installation types, including installations without a graphical desktop:
sh -e ~/Downloads/crouton
After going through the installation process, you can run either of the following commands to enter your Crouton session (assuming you installed Crouton with Xfce):
sudo enter-chroot startxfce4
sudo startxfce4
Switching Between Environments
To go switch back and forth between Chrome OS and your Linux desktop environment, use the following keyboard shortcuts:
  • ARM (like the Samsung Series 3 Chromebook): Ctrl+Alt+Shift+Back and Ctrl+Alt+Shift+Forward
  • Intel x86/AMD64 (like the Chromebook Pixel and $200 Acer Chromebook): Ctrl+Alt+Back and Ctrl+Alt+Forward plus Ctrl+Alt+Refresh
If you want to exit the chroot, just log out of the Xfce desktop (or the Unity desktop, if you’re using that). You’ll then need to run the startxfce4 command above to enter the chroot again.

What You Can Do With Linux

You now have a traditional Linux desktop running alongside Chrome OS. All that traditional Linux software is just an apt-get away in Ubuntu’s software repositories. Graphical utilities like local image editors, text editors, office suites, development tools, all the Linux terminal utilities you would want — they’re all easy to isntall.
You can even easily share files between Chrome OS and your Linux system. Just use the Downloads directory in your home folder. All files in the Downloads directory appear in the Files app on Chrome OS.
On an ARM Chromebook like the Samsung Chromebook, you’re a bit limited in what you can do. Some programs don’t run on ARM, so you can’t run Minecraft and other closed-source applications that haven’t been compiled for ARM Linux. You have access to a variety of open source tools and desktop applications that can be recompiled for ARM, but most closed-source applications won’t work on ARM.
On an Intel Chromebook, you have much more freedom. You could install Steam for Linux, Minecraft, Dropbox, and all the typical applications that work on the Linux desktop, using them alongside Chrome OS. This means that you could install Steam for Linux on a Chromebook Pixel and gain access to a whole other ecosystem of games — if you were crazy enough to buy a Chromebook Pixel, of course.
One last tip if you’re using Xfce — you’ll probably want to disable the screensaver from the Screensaver tool in Xfce’s settings menu. It appears to cause graphical glitches in Chrome OS while running in the background.

Removing Crouton and Restoring Your Chromebook

If you decide you’re done with Linux, you can easily get rid of the scary boot screen and get your internal storage space back.
Just reboot your Chromebook normally to get back to the scary warning screen at boot-up. Follow the prompts on your screen (tap the Space bar and then press Enter) to disable Developer Mode. When you disable Developer Mode, your Chromebook will clean everything up, restoring you to a clean, safe locked-down Chrome OS system and overwriting all the changes you’ve made to your Chromebook’s software.
Retweet this story